Hermès SS27 Bags: Six New Designs, Runway Returns & Vintage Insights

By Ones Vintage Editorial Team

Hermès Spring/Summer 2027 explored “The shape of air” at its Paris presentation on 3 October 2026. The handbags tell a more tactile story: leather cords instead of conventional clasps, curved shoulder shapes, reworked archive fastenings and silhouettes that respond to movement. Here are the designs to know—and what they reveal about the enduring appeal of pre-owned Hermès.

Quick Answer: What Are the Six Hermès SS27 Bags?

Six designs highlighted in early SS27 coverage are the Bridlelock, Rênes, Saut, Collier de Chien To Go, Mangeoire PM Chaîne Torsade and Sac à dos Toron. They range from a reinterpreted Toolbox-like bag and a hardware-free tote to a curved hobo, a Ring-closure mini, a metal-handled archive revival and an open-weave backpack. The group combines new shapes with reworked historical ideas; “six new bags” does not mean all six concepts originated in 2027.

Key Takeaways

• Leather cords, sculptural closures and adaptable straps define several of the most discussed SS27 designs.

• Bridlelock references the Toolbox, while Mangeoire and Collier de Chien To Go draw on older Hermès design language.

• Kelly Hobo returned after its SS26 appearance; it should not be described as an SS27 debut.

• A runway appearance is a reason to revisit an archive style—not proof that a vintage example will appreciate in value.

The Six Hermès SS27 Designs to Know

Design	Type	Defining detail	New or archive-based
Bridlelock	Structured top-handle	Plaque closure; tubular handle	Toolbox (2010) reinterpretation
Rênes	Trapezoid tote	Leather cords control opening	New design
Saut	Curved hobo	Open top; Cadena padlock	New design
Collier de Chien To Go	Mini flap bag	Ring closure; Box calfskin	1950s style revisited
Mangeoire PM Chaîne Torsade	Bucket bag	Twisted metal handle; cut-outs	1949 Mangeoire reinterpretation
Sac à dos Toron	Backpack	Fishnet body; leather drawstring	New design

1.     Bridlelock — A New Interpretation of the Toolbox

Image courtesy: @ Hermès

The Bridlelock revisits the folded, architectural top associated with the Toolbox, introduced in 2010. Instead of the earlier twin-handle arrangement, the SS27 interpretation has one rounded handle secured with D-rings, plus a long, flat shoulder strap at the rear. The most striking change is the front closure: an oversized metal plaque with two release rivets and a central keyhole detail. Five feet protect the base. Its interest lies in the contrast between a familiar boxy upper frame and a more graphic, engineered fastening. Early runway reporting identified Terre, Étoupe and white versions with palladium-tone hardware.

2. Rênes — A Trapezoidal Tote Without Conventional Hardware

Image courtesy: @ Hermès

The Rênes takes the opposite approach: it removes the usual visible metal closure. Its calfskin body forms a clean trapezoid, with elongated leather handles attached to the front and back. Cords at the sides loosen or tighten the structured opening, so access to the interior becomes part of the design rather than a separate clasp mechanism. Several proportions appeared on the runway, including more compact and generous tote sizes. The result is a bag whose silhouette changes subtly as the opening is adjusted—an interesting example of Hermès using leather construction itself as the functional detail.

3.     Saut — A Curved Hobo with a Cadena Detail

Image courtesy: @ Hermès

With its sweeping curved outline, the Saut moves away from the crisp geometry of a traditional top-handle bag. It has an open top and a long adjustable shoulder strap, placing emphasis on an easy shoulder carry. A Cadena padlock provides a recognisable Hermès detail without turning the bag into a heavily ornamented design. The appeal is in the balance: the soft hobo line suggests casual use, while the deliberate curve and restrained hardware keep the silhouette distinctive. As an open-top design, its practicality will depend on the wearer’s preference for access versus closure security.

 

4. Collier de Chien To Go — A Small Bag with a Ring Closure

Image courtesy: @ Hermès

The Collier de Chien To Go revisits a design language associated with Hermès bags of the 1950s. Shown as a compact mini in smooth Box calfskin, it uses an envelope-like flap secured with a prominent Ring closure. A long adjustable strap gives the otherwise formal little bag a more flexible way to be worn. The Ring hardware is the focal point: rather than simply decorating the front, it defines how the flap is fastened. Some SS27 reporting separately uses the term “Ring bag”; the exact relationship between those labels should not be assumed without an official product specification.

5. Mangeoire PM Chaîne Torsade — An Archive Bucket with a Metal Handle

Image courtesy: @ Hermès

The Mangeoire has roots in a late-1940s Hermès design. For SS27, the Mangeoire PM Chaîne Torsade revisits the bucket shape with circular cut-outs and a sculptural metal handle that echoes the twisted rope handle of the earlier design. The interplay between perforated leather and a substantial metallic curve makes this one of the collection’s clearest archive-to-runway transformations. It is not merely an old bag reproduced unchanged: the change of handle material alters both the visual weight and the way the design is read today.

6. Sac à dos Toron — Open-Weave Texture Meets Leather Structure

Image courtesy: @ Hermès

The Sac à dos Toron introduces a more casual proposition: a bucket-like backpack with an open, net-inspired body and calfskin trimming. A leather drawstring closes the top, while two cord straps allow it to be worn on the back. Where Bridlelock focuses on rigid architecture, Toron makes the contrast between airy material and structural leather the central feature. The visible weave is part of its character, although buyers considering a future retail release will want to assess lining, capacity and protection of smaller belongings once full specifications are available.

Returning Bags and Archive Revivals

Kelly Hobo and So Kelly: Related, but Not Identical

The Kelly Hobo was already shown for Spring/Summer 2026 and returned for SS27. Specialist runway reporting connects its relaxed, tall silhouette to the earlier So Kelly associated with the Jean Paul Gaultier period. The contemporary interpretation retains the recognisable sangle-inspired detail but replaces the older D-ring strap arrangement with a more integrated, adjustable leather shoulder strap. These observations describe a design relationship, not a claim that the runway bag has the same dimensions or construction as a pre-owned So Kelly 26.

For a direct comparison with an earlier shoulder-carry Hermès design, see the pre-owned So Kelly 26 in Turquoise Togo at Ones Vintage.

Hermès So Kelly 26 — Brown Togo

Bolide, Mini Bolide Picnic and Nouveau Sac De Jour

The Bolide remains a useful reference for Hermès’ practical heritage, with its rounded profile and zipped opening. SS27 coverage also includes a Mini Bolide Picnic interpretation featuring braided construction, while a separate small Box-calfskin Bolide appears in runway reporting; these should not be treated as the same variation. The Nouveau Sac De Jour offers another related—but distinct—idea, with a wider base, long flat handles, contrasting leathers and a two-way zipper tracing the upper arch. Together they show how a recognisable travel-minded shape can lead to several very different expressions.

Compare these runway interpretations with pre-owned Bolide 31 examples, which are not the same as the SS27 pieces:

Hermès Bolide 31 — Gold Epsom

Hermès Bolide 31 — Fauve Barenia / Crinoline

Garden Party Voyage, Plume and Etrivière Shopping

The Garden Party Voyage appears in Orange Sunset, combining H canvas with matching leather trim. Plume appears in a dark-brown Box-calfskin Mini version and a Gold-coloured Plume Voyage Fourre-Tout. Etrivière Shopping is shown in both a canvas version associated with the menswear line and an all-leather version. These are not interchangeable bags, but all three demonstrate how Hermès can communicate its identity through proportion and workmanship without relying on a Kelly-style closure. For a material comparison, Ones Vintage currently offers a Garden Party 36 combining blue denim and brown leather.

Hermès Garden Party 36 — Brown

Other Archive References: Le Petit Sac, Polochon, Atlas and Ring

Other SS27 reporting identifies Le Petit Sac, which returns from a recent autumn/winter collection; an Atlas-inspired design; and a Polochon variation with a long adjustable shoulder strap, double zipper and lock. The Ring design also returns in compact form, drawing attention to a fastening associated with Hermès’ mid-century archives. Their presence reinforces the wider theme of reinterpretation rather than suggesting that every runway shape is entirely new.

From the Ones Vintage Boutique: What We Check

In our experience handling pre-owned Hermès handbags, Bolide, Garden Party and So Kelly are generally easier to look after than the more structured Birkin and Kelly. Their softer bodies, however, can be more prone to losing shape. On pre-owned Garden Party bags, marks on the fabric interior are a frequent consideration. With Bolide and So Kelly, the issues we examine are much like those on other leather bags, especially wear at the four corners. The condition of an individual piece matters more than the popularity of its silhouette.

What SS27 Means for Vintage Hermès Buyers

SS27 gives buyers a reason to look again at designs that may receive less attention than Birkin or Kelly. But a revival does not guarantee higher resale prices, and a runway version may differ substantially from its historical counterpart. For a pre-owned purchase, compare dimensions, leather, strap configuration, structure, interior condition and signs of use before deciding whether a style fits your daily routine.

Explore Pre-Owned Hermès at Ones Vintage

Ones Vintage curates authenticated pre-owned handbags and accessories in Hong Kong and Singapore. Explore available pieces or enquire about sourcing a particular model, material or colour.

Browse the Ones Vintage Hermès collection

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the six Hermès SS27 bag designs highlighted in early coverage?

Bridlelock, Rênes, Saut, Collier de Chien To Go, Mangeoire PM Chaîne Torsade and Sac à dos Toron. The selection includes both newly developed forms and archive-based reinterpretations.

Is the Kelly Hobo a completely new SS27 bag?

No. The Kelly Hobo appeared for Spring/Summer 2026 and was shown again for Spring/Summer 2027.

Is the SS27 Kelly Hobo identical to a vintage So Kelly 26?

No identical specification has been established. The designs are related, but their strap arrangements and potentially their dimensions and materials differ.

What is the Mini Bolide Picnic?

It is an SS27 Mini Bolide interpretation with a braided, picnic-inspired upper construction. It is distinct from other small Bolide versions shown in runway coverage.

Do SS27 runway appearances make vintage Hermès more valuable?

Not necessarily. Condition, scarcity, buyer demand and the particular specification remain important; runway visibility alone does not establish future resale value.

What should I inspect when buying a pre-owned Garden Party, Bolide or So Kelly?

Check shape retention and corners on all three. Pay particular attention to marks inside a fabric-lined Garden Party, and inspect leather wear, handles and overall structure on Bolide and So Kelly.