Understanding Hermès Leather | Ones Vintage

1｜Introduction

2 | Togo

3 | Espom

4 | Evercolor

5 | Calfskin (Box)

Calfskin (Barenia)

7 | Taurillon Clemence

8 | Juvenile Female Cowhide (Swift)

Goat leather (Chèvre Coromandel)

Goatskin (Chèvre Mysore)

Bornean Alligator (Porosus)

Nile crocodile (Niloticus)

13 | American Alligator

Ostrich

Lizard

1｜Introduction

Hermès uses a wide variety of leathers, including various types of cowhide, lambskin, and exotic leathers, each with distinct characteristics, durability, and weight. In our previous article, we discussed the unique markings on Hermès leathers and briefly introduced the exotic leathers used by Hermès. In this article, we will provide an informative guide to the most common leathers used by Hermès. We hope that those new to Hermès or those interested in learning more about Hermès leather will be able to easily grasp the unique properties and craftsmanship behind these luxurious materials.

2 | Togo

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Since its introduction in 1997, Hermès' Togo leather has become one of its most popular. Named after the African country of Togo, it is crafted using a drumming technique. Made from the neck of a young bull, it has a fine grain, is scratch-resistant, easily refinished, and is relatively lightweight.

Togo is a durable leather that's easy to care for. It's a natural pebbled leather with a matte finish, characterized by smaller grain and visible lines. It looks similar to pebbled leather, but not all Togo leathers have these lines. Due to its unique texture, Togo leather doesn't easily show scratches, which is an advantage over other leathers. It's also relatively easy to care for, with most stains easily wiping off with a damp cloth. Water damage or minor scratches are relatively easy to repair, making Togo a popular leather choice for beginners, despite its higher price. However, Togo can become soft and sag over time, especially in larger handbags.

3 | Epsom

Epsom is Hermès' most commonly used classic hard leather, a full-grain bull leather commonly known as "palm-grain leather." This leather was introduced in 2004, replacing Courchevel, which was discontinued the same year. Its smooth, neat, firm grain and captivating luster are not naturally occurring, but rather a result of a unique, heat-embossed leather process unique to Hermès. This printing (embossing) process creates small, uniform grains, making the leather more durable, scratch-resistant, and water-resistant.

Epsom is often used in Sellier-style handbags like the Kelly and Birkin bags. It's particularly popular because it's lightweight, scratch-resistant, and retains its shape, and its color displays are more vibrant than most other leathers. It's also very easy to care for and can be wiped clean with a damp cloth, making it very practical. However, because the grain is embossed, it may wear at contact points, and these scuffs cannot be repaired.

4 | Evercolor

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Launched in 2013, Evercolor was initially used for small leather goods. It's related to Evercalf and Evergrain, but more durable. A full-grain calf leather, it's an embossed leather with a tight grain and a soft touch, its matte finish boasting a subtle sheen. As a durable Hermès leather, it remains the same exceptional embossed leather, becoming even softer with age. Evercolor has become a popular choice for Kelly, Constance, and Lindy.

5 | Calfskin (Box)

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Box, named after the British box tanning technique, is Hermès' oldest leather, having been used since the early 1890s. Made from calf hides aged three to six months, it undergoes a buffing process, resulting in a fine leather that develops a beautiful patina over time. Box leather is exceptionally strong and retains its shape well. Because of this characteristic, Box Calf is most commonly used in structured handbags, such as the Kelly Sellier.

However, the surface of the Box leather is delicate and easily scuffed and scratched, and water can cause blisters. Therefore, special attention should be paid to waterproofing and dry storage during daily use. If you accidentally leave some minor scratches on the leather, you can try to gently rub the bag with your fingers until the marks gradually fade with the oil of the leather. If the blemish is serious, you can have it repaired by a professional or send it to Hermès for repair.

Calfskin (Barenia)

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Barenia leather is renowned for its smooth surface, water-repellent properties, and beautiful neutral tones. Named after the village of Barr in Alsace, France, this leather has been described as "magical" due to its ability to absorb marks and minor scratches when rubbed. The Barenia tanning process involves first double tanning with chrome and vegetable dyes, followed by soaking in a mixture of oils for several weeks to completely absorb the oils, creating that "magical" scratch resistance (even raindrops eventually evaporate).

Originally used for Hermès saddles, this smooth calfskin, with a slight luster, resists scratches and rain, and remains one of Hermès' most durable leathers. It was first used in handbags in the 1970s. Barenia leather absorbs skin oils, developing a patina over time, which can be both a benefit and a drawback, depending on personal preference. Due to its rich history, rich texture, ability to change with time, and unique aroma, Barenia is highly sought after by long-time collectors.

7 | Taurillon Clemence

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Taurillon Clemence is one of Hermès' most popular leathers, offering a relatively low price. First introduced in the 1990s, Taurillon Clemence is named after the daughter of the designer who introduced it to the Hermès collection. Today, it's often referred to simply as Clemence leather, or TC for short. While similar to Togo, Clemence has a smoother feel, a slightly larger grain, and lacks the grain of Togo.

Clemence is made from young calfskin leather with a matte finish. It's soft and heavy, but generally less structural than other styles, causing the bag to sag and relax slightly over time. This is commonly seen in handbags like the Lindy bag and the Picotin bag. While Clemence may be the heaviest and most saggy of Hermès leathers, it's also very durable, scratch-resistant, and can be refurbished. However, TC leather has a drawback: its poor water resistance. Water exposure can easily cause water spots or blisters on the surface. Therefore, buyers of TC leather should pay special attention to waterproofing.

8 | Juvenile Female Cowhide (Swift)

Swift leather, formerly known as Gulliver, was discontinued in 1999 but reintroduced in 2005 under the new name: Swift leather. Made from the hide of young female cows, Swift boasts a fine, natural grain that is soft and resilient to the touch. Its lustrous texture absorbs color easily, making it an excellent choice for Hermès lovers of color. While lightweight and boasting excellent color reproduction, it is susceptible to scratches and sags over time, requiring careful care.

Goat leather (Chèvre Coromandel)

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While Chèvre de Coromandel is one of the more expensive leathers in Hermès's collection, it remains one of the most sought-after. Its texture is similar to Togo leather, sourced from male goats, which gives it a uniquely resilient and excellent toughness and scratch resistance. Characterized by its iridescent sheen and subtle grain, it maintains its shape despite being lightweight, offering both practicality and a luxurious feel. Chèvre de Coromandel's durability and grain make it virtually resistant to scratches and blemishes, despite being lightweight and soft, offering a wonderful feel.

10 | Goatskin (Chèvre Mysore)

Mysore leather, named after a city in India, is currently the most commonly used goat leather at Hermès. Due to its durability and scratch resistance, Mysore is often used as a lining leather for handbags. It has a unique and finely detailed horizontal grain and a strongly nubuck surface. The leather is thick, soft, lightweight, and scratch-resistant. However, due to the complex production process and rarity of the raw material, handbags made from this leather are relatively expensive.

Bornean Alligator (Porosus)

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Borneo crocodiles (Crocodylus salpinus), primarily found in Southeast Asia and northern Australia, are known for their ferocious and aggressive nature, making flawless crocodile leather increasingly rare. Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags are often crafted from the belly skin of young Porosus crocodiles. Consequently, Porosus crocodiles command the highest prices among Hermès crocodile leathers of similar size. Hermès even offers a distinctive inverted V-shaped mark (^) for identification.

Crocodile Porosus, Hermès' most expensive exotic leather, can be either smooth (Lisse) or matte. This leather is considered the highest quality and most valuable, with a uniform, even pattern. If you look closely, you can even see tiny pores.

Nile crocodile (Niloticus)

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Nile crocodile leather, native to the Nile River basin in Africa, is Hermès' second-grade premium crocodile leather and one of the most sought-after exotic leathers. Nile crocodile leather is very large, with numerous small dots or pores on its scales, and a texture that transitions from square to irregularly rounded. It comes in two finishes: lissé (glossy) and matte. The lissé finish is achieved by buffing the skin to a beautiful sheen. Hermès' Himalayan crocodile leather handbags are crafted from Nile crocodile leather through a specialized process.

Nile crocodile leather handbags can be identified by the two dots (••) next to the Hermès name. Although these crocodiles come from the Nile River, it is recommended to keep the bags away from water to avoid damage.

13 | American Alligator

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The Mississippi alligator, a North American alligator, has a short, U-shaped snout and is considered the gentlest of the three crocodile species. Unlike the other two crocodile species, this leather is the only one without pores, resulting in an exceptionally smooth and soft surface. The transition between the bamboo grain and the flank grain is distinct, with parallel dividing lines and a very uniform grain. Its grain is more irregular and the grain is larger, making it popular for small bags and leather goods.

This highly sought-after exotic leather is available in both matte and smooth (lisse) finishes. This exquisite leather is rarely found in larger handbags, and despite its similarity to Nile crocodile and Bornean alligator, alligator handbags are the least expensive of the three crocodile leathers. You can identify alligator handbags and accessories by the square symbol next to the Hermès name.

Ostrich

Ostrich leather, sourced from South Africa, is one of Hermès' most durable exotic leathers. It's a premium leather second only to crocodile leather. An ostrich leather bag is instantly recognizable by the circular pores on its surface, representing the feather follicles found throughout the ostrich's skin. Hermès' expert artisans flatten these dots one by one, ensuring the leather's smooth and delicate feel. The ostrich color has a matte finish, often imparting a unique color. Ostrich leather is soft yet strong, five times more resilient than cowhide, and retains its shape remarkably well over time.

While durable, hand oils and sweat can cause it to darken or soften. It is the only exotic leather Hermès offers that does not bear the Hermès seal and is not subject to CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) importation into the United States.

Lizard

The Nile lizard (Veranus niloticus) is the most common of the two lizard skins used by Hermès. The best way to identify Nile lizard is to check for the mark next to the Hermès name. The Nile lizard mark is marked with a single hyphen (-). Like most Hermès exotic leathers, lizard leather can have both matte and glossy finishes. However, the small size of the lizard's scales gives even matte products a slight sheen. Due to the lizard's smaller size, this leather is typically used for smaller handbags and accessories. Lizard leather is a delicate material that requires regular care to prevent the scales from drying out.

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The Salvador monitor lizard (Varanus Salvator), native to Southeast Asia, is known for its use in Hermès' "Oblique" lizard handbags and accessories. The Salvador monitor's symbol is flanked by two hyphens (=). The Salvador monitor is dyed to create a symmetrical pattern that highlights the leather's natural grain.